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Magleby’s: A place worth dressing up for

Magleby’s has been an institution in Utah Valley, and holds a place of prominence in Springville, sitting in the historic Reynolds building on the corner of Main Street and 200 South. The interior is an eclectic mix of styles, with raw, original brick mixed with Greek columns, and modern steelwork. Tall windows topped with intricate stained glass allow light to flood into the dining area, and in the center of it all, there is a waterfall that cascades down, leading to the basement level. It’s a beautiful building and the high ceilings give plenty of places for any noise to go, which leads to a pleasant and private dining experience.

After nearly a decade of living in Springville, this was the first time I actually went to eat at Magleby’s. When I first moved into the city, I made a list of all the local restaurants that I wanted to try, and Magleby’s was near the top. Tales of their chocolate cake were nearly legendary, and I had heard regulars talk of what a pleasant experience it was to dine in. 

To mark the occasion (of my first dine-in experience), I was able to bring my wife with me and enjoy a menu selected by Kuldeep Singh, who has been Magleby’s executive chef since 2011. Upon meeting Singh, I was immediately taken in by his professional, yet reserved nature that allowed his food to take center stage.

We started our meal with Magleby’s fabled parmesan bread, which was warm and fluffy with a pleasant bite from the parmesan. If there’s any question about the starter’s notoriety, a quick search on the internet shows dozens of copycat recipes trying to emulate Magelby’s bread. I can’t speak to their quality, but I can recommend the ones made here, in-house.

The bread was followed by two appetizers: gourmet fried shrimp and fried mozzarella chips. The shrimp is marinated overnight in buttermilk, and the hand-breading is light, giving just enough crunch to complement the buttery shrimp. For me, the mozzarella chips were the real stand-out. The buffalo mozzarella is so silky and smooth, with each bite melting away in your mouth. This appetizer is so flavorful and rich that you don’t even need the house marinara sauce, but they are well complimented by the zippy tomato flavor.

Maglebys - Beetroot Salad. Photos by Pete Hansen.
Maglebys – Beetroot Salad. Photos by Pete Hansen.

Next up was the beetroot salad, which is a light, but flavorful affair, topped with goat cheese and a dark balsamic vinaigrette. It’s served with pistachio dust that adds a satisfying flavor and texture profile to the beets and super greens. It’s the structure of that salad that speaks to the quality of ingredients and understanding of which flavors work together. I’ve long held that a restaurant can be judged by their salads, because anyone can chop up a head of iceberg and top it with ranch, but it takes a skilled, knowledgeable person to create something interesting, which I had here.

For the main course, we were served blackened salmon with pineapple salsa served on top of rice pilaf, glazed carrots,  and lemon pepper asparagus. If you think that last sentence was a mouthful,  read on. Their hand-cut ribeye steak was topped with a red wine demi-glace and served with portabella mushrooms, pearls, onions, roasted fingerling potatoes, and an assortment of house vegetables.

Maglebys - blackened salmon with pineapple salsa served on top of rice pilaf. Photos by Pete Hansen.
Maglebys – blackened salmon with pineapple salsa served on top of rice pilaf. Photos by Pete Hansen.

I’m always very wary of salmon, because it’s very common to cook it poorly. This salmon, however, was flaky, flavorful, and wonderfully moist with a dynamic charbroiled profile. The ribeye was a monstrous piece of meat, and after eating so much already, it was intimidating to say the least. As full as I was, I knew I would have to stop myself from eating it all after the first bite. The meat was deliciously tender and the demi was so rich and flavorful that it added a tremendous depth to the dish. I made sure every bite I took had a bit of the French sauce on it.

As if that meal wasn’t enough, we finished with not one, not two, but three desserts. First was the cheesecake, which was airy and light, and a wonderful finish to such a filling meal. Second was a strawberry chiffon cake, which is currently a work-in-progress from the baker. It’s hard to say how it will change when it finally reaches the menu, but for now, it reminds me of the strawberry shortcake my grandmother used to make, which is always going to be a compliment. And finally, I was able to get my first bite of the celebrated chocolate cake, which, thankfully, they packed and sent home with us because I couldn’t have eaten any more. It is rich, it is chocolatey, and it is no wonder so many people talk about it.

Maglebys cheesecake strawberry chifon cake. Photos by Pete Hansen.
Maglebys cheesecake strawberry chifon cake. Photos by Pete Hansen.

If I had one issue with my dining experience, it had nothing to do with the food, the service, or the restaurant. It came down to the other diners. Gentlemen, my brothers, would it kill you to leave the baseball caps and basketball shorts at home? Grab a pair of slacks and a shirt with a collar – you don’t even need to tuck it in. Give the restaurant, and the quality food they prepare the respect they most definitely deserve.

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